A-A-50198 Thread, Gimp, Cotton, ButtonholeThis document covers thread intended for use as the reinforcing cord for eyelet-end buttonholes.

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A-A-51098A

3.2  Physical requirements of thread.  The  thread shall conform to the physical requirements specified in Table I.

TABLE I Physical requirements

               Tex                             Breaking Strength lbs. min           Test Method

Soft

1/ Testing speed shall be 12 + 0.5 in./min., and a 10 inch gauge length shall be used.

2/  Five determinations per sample unit.

3.3 Color. The color shall be as specified in the applicable end item specification or in the contract order, or will be a good (good is defined as a perceptible not appreciable difference in color) match to the base cloth of the end item. The color of the thread may be an acceptable commercial component if it is not matched to the base cloth of the end item.

3.4 Colorfastness. The colorfastness of dyed finished thread shall be as specified in the applicable end item specification or as set forth in the contract except that when requirements are not stated or referenced to a standard sample for colorfastness, the thread shall be in accordance with commercial practices.  When a standard is referenced, the thread shall be "equal to or better than the standard sample" for the specified requirement.

3.5 Finishing materials. No chemical finishes or treatments shall be applied for the purpose of increasing the breaking strength. The finished thread shall have no chemical finishes or treatments other than those commonly used on commercial threads which have been demonstrated to have no deleterious effects on the cotton fiber, including effects in prolonged storage. The soft thread have a soft or natural finish having no consistency or luster other than that inherent to the cotton material. The glazed  thread shall be glazed and lustrous with a smooth surface having no protruding fibers.

3.6 Put-up. Unless otherwise specified, the thread shall be put-  up on holders such as commercial spools, cones, or tubes as specified in the contract. The thread shall be wound around the specified holder in one continuous piece, so that each turn and layer is free of entanglement. The outside ending of the thread shall be secured to prevent unwinding, loosening or slippage during handling, shipping or storage.

3.7 Labeling. Each holder shall have a label, adhered securely so as to remain in place and be clearly legible until all thread has been removed. The label shall be printed and include information related to length in yards, direction of twist, color, Tex, size, name of thread manufacturer, and nomenclature specifying either soft or glazed

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